ENTERING OBEDIENCE COMPETITIONS

Dog showing is character building, and is a sport which, just like all sports, demands that competitors behave in a sportsmanlike way. It is certainly not as easy as it may look.

 The purpose of CKC obedience trials may be to demonstrate the usefulness of the purebred dog as a companion of man, but more than this, an obedience trial will give a fair assessment of how trained a dog really is (or is not).
The development of trials such as rally and agility have actually undermined the quality of training in today’s dogs. The standard of testing is easier for rally compared to CD, CDX (Open) and Utility classes. When confronted with the challenges of B competitions people just invented new classes. Fine. So be it. However, regardless of how many hoops and ramps a dog jumps, at the end of the day, a dog is not fully and reliably trained to be trusted in public if it cannot pass a regular National Kennel Club Novice B or A class obedience trial.

CONFORMATION
MR. JONES WINNERS DOG AND BEST OF OPPOSITE 

There you have it. Even in Comformation showing, the dog must be obedience trained to show at his best. Many excellent conformation dogs who are not winning just need foundation obedience to turn things around.

CKC NOVICE OBEDIENCE TITLE FOR PUREBRED DOGS

CONFORMATION FOR PUREBRED BREED STANDARDS

CKC CANINE GOOD NEIGHBOUR CERTIFICATE  for all dogs great starting place

 Only dogs who are entered in the show are allowed at a show venue, so spectators must leave their dogs at home. Observing how the show works, reading up on the rules and  planning to enter a show only after the dog is ready (and not until) will all help ensure a successful test result and a pleasant show experience.

THE "WATCH ME" EXERCISE

WATCH ME
Before starting this exercise the dog should know how to sit in front of the handler, leash on, and the dog should know how to accept praise.

The handler knows how to anticipate movement, can keep eye contact, understands verbal corrections, vertical and horizontal lead corrections, pop and release, and the importance of voice tones and praise.

Controlled walking has taught limits.

The objective of the WATCH ME is to have the dog watch you intently while waiting for the next command. In formal obedience competition, this is taught so that the dog will not look away and miss the hand signals, but will carefully watch the handler for direction. Since all dogs should behave like well mannered show dogs, it follows (in Nana's world) that all dogs should learn the " WATCH ME" exercise.

The dog must know when he is about to receive information. His name is his cue to look at me. He hears his name “Doggie” then the command “watch me”. (or heel, or come, or down etc.)

 It is important here to look at your dog’s eyes. If he looks away, pop and release the leash on the upward vertical (stepping in slightly to ensure a straight up correction) at the same time firmly, verbally correct “NO”.  Follow through with reassuring praise voice, “Doggie, Watch Me”. When he looks at you, immediately say "What a Good Dog, Watch Me" trying to keep the dog watching you with your voice as you speak. Chit chat and hopefully the dog will keep looking at you, even briefly. Anticipate him glancing away and be ready to use the leash correction, your firm correction voice and instantly switch to praise voice. Voice tone changes as you pop and release the leash. 

It is imperative that no lead pressure is present when he hears his name and “Watch Me”. In other words POP and RELEASE on “NO”. Make a definite tone difference between the sound of “NO” and the “DOGGIE WATCH ME”. Practise very briefly but very frequently. When each session is over, give a distinct pat of praise on the dogs sternum. Say "WHAT A GOOD DOG". 

The handler must always praise like an emotionally well-adjusted and in control human being, whom the dog will believe in.

From here the dog will eventually learn to “Watch Me” from the heel position. Practise briefly each time, only a few minutes. 

Once the dog watches at heel, it is ready to learn to “SPRING to HEEL” which is ever so flashy, but difficult to learn if your timing is off. Look for the dogs legs to be moving as your left foot moves forward. 

From the heel position, “Watch Me” “Are you Ready?” “Doggie, HEEL”. Once you are in motion, talk to the dog in a happy voice, even dance about a bit. At this point we are only looking for the dog to be in motion at the instant we are in motion. We are not continuing to walk at heel. This is the "spring to heel" which is the only one part of the heeling exercise.

Leash Corrections are just meant to be attention getters so they should not be harsh whatsoever. There is no room for harshness in training; only respectful accuracy and consistency.

Gently but accurately POP and RELEASE the leash horizontally in the direction of travel, at the same time as saying HEEL (not on name). Release immediately, do not pull but quickly, gently, pop and release. Keep elbows in at the sides. An efficient correction is the only one worth giving. The Inefficient corrections are confusing and cruel to the dog.

 LOOK FOR HER LEGS TO BE MOVING AS YOU STEP FORWARD WITH YOUR LEFT LEG. 

COLLAR NOTES

The Thinking Necklace

LINKS SHOULD BE SMOOTH

The chain slip collar is used because of the close and  release action. POP and RELEASE
Timing is everything.

COLLAR RINGS SHOULD BE STRONG

COLLARS SHOULD BE GOOD QUALITY METAL, SOME POORER QUALITY, IMPORTED COLLARS, MADE OF DANGEROUS MATERIALS, HAVE MADE IT INTO THE MARKET 

THE RING THAT GOES TO THE LEASH CLIP IS THE RUNNING RING
THE OTHER RING IS THE DEAD RING

CLIP THE LEASH TO ONE RING, IT BECOMES THE RUNNING RING
THE OTHER RING IS THE DEAD RING

HOLD THE DEAD RING AND LOWER THE CHAIN TROUGH IT

STAND SO THE DOG IS ON YOUR LEFT

HOW IT SHOULD LOOK WHEN DOG IS ON YOUR LEFT

WITH THE DOG ON YOUR LEFT THE RUNNING RING COMES FROM ACROSS THE BACK OF THE DOGS NECK

FOR GENTLE GUYS, RIBBON LEASH IS OKAY BUT YOUR ACTIONS MUST BE VERY EXACT

THE ONLY ACCEPTABLE COLLAR IS THE THINKING CHAIN
WHEN PURCHASING BE SURE IT IS A SAFE KIND OF METAL FOR YOUR DOG. READ THE TAGS.
NO TAGS? DO  NOT PURCHASE.

ABBEY WHIPPET AND GREYHOUND BULLET

NAN AND BRONSON

DOG MANNERS TEST FOR ALL DOGS

CANADIAN KENNEL CLUB

CANINE GOOD NEIGHBOUR

EXERCISES

1. Accepting a friendly stranger

2. Politely accepts petting

3. Appearance and grooming

4. Out for a walk

5. Walking through a crowd

6.  Sit / Down on command and stay in place (long Line)

7. Come when called (long line)

8.  Praise/ Interaction

9.  Reaction to passing dog

10. Reaction to distractions

11. Supervised isolation

12. Walking through a door/gate

All exercises are on leash and are non competitive.

Dogs must pass all 12 exercises

There is a downloadable Participant Handbook on the Canadian Kennel Club web site. The handbook provides details and tips for practise.

The test is good for all dogs, even those destined for the formal obedience competitions and beyond for adding to a dog's foundations skills. It is a great starting point for the new handler to become familiar with the experience of showing a dog. It is Obedience on a parlour show level without the formal atmosphere and exercises. Try it out and take your dog on a picnic after. Don't forget, pass or fail it is all a party after the dog show. All of life is a dog show. 

http://www.ckc.ca/en/Archived/By-Event-Type/Canine-Good-Neighbour-CGN/Canine-Good-Neighbour-Program-Participant-Handbook

ABOUT X PEN TRAINING AGAIN

About Xpen training and training your dog to do his business on command.

Why do this?

When you know that your dog is comfortable in this regard (has gone pee and has pooped) you can safely and with good conscience, confine or train him. All dogs can learn to do their business on command. This is how to best housebreak a dog.

When to do this

Over a weekend or holiday or other time off when you won’t be interrupted or have strangers around and all of your personal chores are done.

How to do this

With determination, time and proper set up.

An Exercise Kennel is an area of your yard or outdoor space which is reserved for your dog to do its business in. It should be sized according to the dog, giving sufficient room for free tail passage and turning about. It should not be larger than needed. Too much room is not good. It is not for play, it is for business and only business.

If you live in an apartment:

You must take your dog out of your unit, down the hall to the stairs or elevator etc and then out.  Choose a convenient spot just outside where you live. Pick where YOU want him to go and you are allowed, where the disposal bins are close, the ground is safe from debris and it is lit at night.  Select an area suitable to the size of your dog. You will keep your dog on leash until fully trained for a recall so just go to that spot, do not go on walks until your dog will do its business when you ask it to where you ask it to. IF YOUR DOG IS ACCUSTOMED TO GOING ON A WALK TO DO HIS BUSINESS AND YOU WANT TO TEACH HIM TO DO BUSINESS IN THE BUSINESS CENTRE, THE FIRST TIME YOU TRY IT, HE MIGHT JUST LOOK AT YOU AND DO NOTHING. Wait as long as you want to and if nothing happens go back indoors to the crate put the dog away and wait half an hour and try again. Keep it up until you get results. Keep the dog on leash at the business spot; the leash is the X pen if you live in an apartment where you must walk off the property with your dog. It would be nice if apartments and hotels had practical, cleanable business areas for dog tenants and guests. In Nana’s perfect world.

You will need three or four full days in a row to devote to this training, with nothing else on the schedule. Anything else will delay progress. Keep determined.

If you live in a home with a yard, lucky you and lucky dog!

You need outdoor exercise pens one or two eight panels, no gate or door in them. The Exercise Pen should be set over the area which will be your outdoor dog business yard.

Near house exit door for night and day emergency runs.

Near out door water if possible.

Not on grass; it gets sour stinky buggy messy and dirty

On cement blocks, on gravel base for drainage, pavers with drainage, large gravel (can’t be swallowed easily by pups.

Do not put plastic under the blocks ; it impairs drainage. The dog urine will kill any grass trying to grow between the blocks, no need for plastic or material. Drainage is most important.

DRAINAGE IS IMPORTANT

ON GRAVEL

PAVER BRICKS

ONCE THE DRILL IS UNDERSTOOD COMPLETE, NO NEED TO CONFINE WITH X PEN  IF HE GOES WHEN AND WHERE YOU SAY SO

Keep the pen clean at all times. Have at hand:

Poop shovels, stable broom if on bricks or pavers, disinfectant, detergent, bag lined covered buckets, bag lined pick up buckets, spare bags, poop pick up bags, antibacterial wipes, garden hose and water.

Until you get all that, (costly) just exercise pens (called play yards sometimes) on the grass or gravel will do but keep the grass weed whipped short and washed, and gravel size is an issue for young dogs who eat stones. Always stay outside when your dog is. Do not leave your dog unattended outside ever.  are Untrained dogs are not supposed to be making decisions on their own and dogs left outside on their own, are doing exactly that. The dogs are totally smarter than their owners and are in control.  And there you have it

BARKING DOGS

First of all a dog should not be outside of the abode without a handler present. The dog should be attached to the handler, either audibly, visually, or by a leash. If the dog is barking while it is on a leash, it had better be in guard dog training class or else The Dog Nana is going to kick someones ass. Someone has to kick, and Nana will kick. WHY IS THIS DOG BARKING ALL OVER THE PLACE? PEOPLE HATE THAT. If you are living in the tortured environment of someone elses barking dogs, your angst is justified.

The problem with barking dogs, is a lack of education on the owners part and a lack of training on the dogs part. It is a difficult matter to resolve because, dogs are supposed to bark. HOWEVER, dogs are not supposed to bark of their own accord. There is supposed to be a responsible human in attendance of the dog. The handler is the one who is the decision maker. The dog does not decide to bark. The handler would be the one to tell the dog to do that .

A person can jump up and down and scream until their head falls off but that will never stop a dog from barking. It will shut him up momentarily all right but he will start up again and then it always goes the same, "Bark bark bark!  FIDO SHUT UP! ..........bark bark.....bark ....bark ...bark bark bark bark bark..FIDO SHUT UP", on and on until the entire neighborhood hates that dog or dogs and the people yelling at them. It makes the Dog Nana tap dance. Plenty of things will stop barking temporarily, but to stop it from starting takes training. Simply using the foundations basic exercises will stop a dog from barking.  If a dog is merely let out into the yard on his own he will naturally bark. It is what a dog does. Bark. The owner must take control. Obedience training is a magic pill to stop unwanted barking.

The dog must not initiate the barking. With seriously well trained protective breeds, like patrol dogs, doberman, shepherd, boxer, Bouvier and the like, there is always a handler standing present to address any concern the dog has, to quietly acknowledge the dog and say, " Ya, thanks, I see that, it's okay, chill out, quiet now, do your business".

For the house pet, we go outside with them to manage the control. Dogs left out on their own often forget to do the task they were sent to do and then they come back in the house only to accidentally make a mess on the floor, Handlers fault; should have been out to see that the dog did his duty.

Dogs that are crate trained, exercise pen trained, controlled walk trained, who will sit and pay attention and who will accept praise in a decent fashion, do not bark for no apparent reason. Time spent on the fundamentals will stop barking and yard digging issues. Trained dogs will go out while the handler stands at the door, they will go directly to their business center, they will do their duties and come directly back to the door, no fuss or trouble.

In light of the terrible dog attacks in the news, communities are taking dog ownership and responsibility very seriously.
If a neighbour dog is driving you nuts in an unreasonable situation, keep a meticulous journal about the barking and any interactions you have and  then leave it up to the animal bylaw authority in your region to speak to the owners.

TRAINED DOGS BARK WHEN IT IS OKAY WITH THE HANDLER

OBEDIENCE TRAINED DOGS ARE TRUSTWORTHY QUIET CANINES

THE HUP STICK

The HUP STICK and  RETRIEVING THE DUMBBELL are 2 extras that The Dog Nana teaches in Novice (C.D.) unlike other methods of training which wait until Open/ Intermediate (C.D.X.) to teach these.

We see dogs flourish after learning the HUP STICK and the DUMBBELL exercises so why not teach it early on.

Basic Obedience Novice which comprises of:

• heel on leash and figure 8
• stand stay for examination
• heel free
• the recall

Keep working on the regular stuff, but add:

 THE HUP STICK FOR A BREAK FROM THE USUAL



The HUP STICK, is wooden (3/8 inch) doweling (36 inches) 91cm long. It is painted alternating black and white stripes, each stripe about 15 cm. (6 inches) wide. We use the HUP STICK to teach the dog to jump over or onto something on command. HUP the stick, hup onto the grooming table, show table. vets counter, car, truck over a puddle etc.

HUP ONTO THE GROOMING TABLE

In Obedience competition, the HUP STICK is a training aid which will start the jumping a dog will be required to do in OPEN competition (C.D.X. [companion dog excellent] intermediate level) and UTILITY (U.D. [utility dog] advanced level). In Open, the dog retrieves over a "high jump board set" and jumps over a" broad jump set". In Utility the dog must jump over a bar and set of high jump boards in the directed jumping exercise. The stick is propped against something in to teach these.

The black and white HUP STICK is a release tool as well as well as a teaching aid. While heeling the stick it put out front of the dog and he jumps it in stride. Great fun and flash!

 DON'T HIT THE DOG WITH THE STICK.  It is a no brainer, but some folks need to be reminded. If you hit the dog with the stick he will never jump anything, especially the HUP stick in your hand.

Start out by first laying the stick FLAT on the ground and heeling over it , stepping along naturally.

 As you pass over the stick say HUP. Keep up the chitty chat telling the dog about WHAT a GOOD DOG he is and how much fun he is having.  Do that a few times the first day and then put the stick away until tomorrow. End HAPPY

If that goes okay, move on to propping up one end of the stick on a couple of books, or the rung of a chair, or if outside, a brick or step. Work indoors at first, if possible, because there are fewer distractions, gradually going out and about to train. Prop it against a wall or fence or something is such a way that encourages the dog to go over the stick rather than around it.       

After the dog is walking over the stick with ease, prop one end of  the stick up about (8 inches) 20 cm.
Approach the stick so the dog will go over the raised part. Say HUP as you go over the stick. Give a little shake of the leash, KEEP APPROACHING FROM THE SAME SIDE AT FIRST. Remember to say WHAT A GOOD DOG

I realize that not everyone has indoor space. If you are like Nana, and you live in a small room, you are lucky because you get to spend a lot of time with your dog close to you. But, you will have to go outside to dog train. Everywhere you go with your dog, if you use the leash and collar, you will be training. When you must go out and about to train, your dog seems to get trained faster of necessity.  Just use the leash, do not allow the dog to make mistakes. Keep the leash on.

NEXT, PROP THE STICK AT BOTH ENDS, STILL STEP OVER WITH THE DOG SAY HUP AS YOU GO OVER, KEEP GOING AROUND AND APPROACHING FROM THE SAME SIDE.

Next step, bend down as you go over the stick reaching down with one hand as if you were holding the stick as up say HUP. You may zip through these steps quickly or it could take a few days. Or sometimes, as in Layla's case, just put the stick in front and use the leash to help the dog over.  If you run into trouble, stay relax and do a bit at a time.

Next step, walk around with the stick in hand, as you are heeling, stop on your right foot, as you bend to put the stick out low, and move it under your left foot as you step over and sweep the stick under the dog. As you do so, say HUP, and pop straight forward on the leash to help the dog jump (do not pop upwards).  

In early obedience training sessions are not very long, only five or ten minutes at a time, but they are frequent. Praise Praise Praise and Practise.

LITTLE COCKAPOO "MY FLOWER" LAYLA BEAR READY FOR LESSONS

HOLD THE STICK LOW AND HELP THE DOG OVER WITH THE LEASH
SAY HUP AS YOU USE THE LEASH

AS SHE JUMPS PASS THE STICK UNDERNEATH HORIZONTALLY

WHAT A SPECTACULAR GOOD DOG LAYLA!

AS YOU RAISE THE HEIGHT, PROP THE STICK AGAINST SOMETHING LIKE A BOX

EVERYONE CAN JUMP

IT IS THAT CHRISTIE SPRINGS AGAIN WITH THE RBARK ON HER HIP
ROAR!

WORK HARD

MADDIE READY FOR THE NEXT STEP
COME HUP OVER THE STICK

GOLDEN RETRIEVER PUP "FIVER" 10 WEEKS WITH DUMBBELL

PAW PRINTS ON YOUR HEART!

THE DOODLE DOGS

The cross breeds of Yellow Labrador Retriever x Standard Poodle, Chocolate Labrador Retriever x Standard Poodle, and Golden Retriever x Standard Poodle, are Delightful Dogs but can be a challenge to own because of their wiry ways and grooming needs. (We have only trained pure bred Black Standard Poodles and Black Labrador Retrievers at Anna Lee. We have never had a black doodle dog; which is probably a blessing! lol).There are also smaller Doodle mixes of Minature Poodles and Labrador Retrievers  but they are also a challenge to own and train because of their hardy nature.  No matter what the dog, his condition affects his training and hence your life.

Doodle Dogs, like many of the designer mixers, can have a lot of allergies. Some of these prove to be less allergy and more coat and ear care issues, but if all else fails and it is allergies, diet and environment must be adjusted. Including your own personal care products that rub off on the dog or which he can smell. Here is a thought, I wonder if  Doodle Dogs look for hypoallergenic owners!

Seriously Nana!

Looking at the coat of the DODDLE MIXES:
You have the coat of the Retrievers and the coat of the Poodles. There be issues especially with ears. They will get hot and stinky if you do not care for them. You must care for the doodle dogs ears meticulously because you have a very heavy leathered ear full of hair. Moisture and yeast can be a problem so it is vital to get airflow around the ears. Removing hair as in a poodle grooming, is the best solution. Clear as mush coat from the ears as is possible and thin out or shave the face cheeks.

There are two schools of thought on tweezing, vets don't like it but they are not groomers, are they. As a Professional dog handler I will tell you that is is best to do, but then only if done correctly. If there is and abundance of hair in the ears bell, like there is in pure bred poodles...then it should be tweezed. Even is not tweezed in the canals, the flap should be shaved under and over, the bell should be shaved away and the bell itself swabbed with cleaning solution and properly dried.

Some Veterinarians fail to show owners how to properly care for the ears when they prescribe solutions for mites or yeast. When putting drops in the ears, you must wipe the excess away,  using a clean tissue wrapped around your finger. Wipe all the parts you can see of the ear, but do go down deep. Just do it like you would clean your own ears. Use  a cotton dauber to wipe around the folds and creases of the dogs ear bell. Itchy ears can be mites, yeast or allergies etc, but they can also just be lacking cleaning, so regular grooming is the rule for doddle doggies.  The chocolate and vanilla doodles are less heavily coated that the golden doodles. The coat is thinner but the care is still required weekly.

Also if you have mats on your dog, any mats any dog, you are not grooming it properly so get rid of the coat or look after it. Dogs experience a lot of pain from coat mats and the condition of the dog affects its ability to learn and perform. Mats also make a dog miserable and inclined to be snappy.
I cannot say enough about your duty to groom your dog. Every Saturday if there is any poodle involved in the mix. Watch cartoons while you groom. BTW the STAND STAY exercise...IMPORTANT.

CHOCOLATE DOODLE PUPPY 6 months

About training Doodles, Start leash work immediately because they have a powerful constitution once they grow up. They are strong and stoic animals. 

There are ways to gets adults to stop tugging on the leash. Again it is the effectiveness of your corrections that count. And timing.

GEORGEOUS CHOCOLATE  DOODLE BERNARD 

GOLDEN DOODLE BOUNCE

DOODLES ARE GREAT FUN

FULL COAT GOLDEN DOODLE

SUMMER COAT HAIRDO
WITH DOODLES,, LESS HAIRE ON THE EARS THE BETTER

FULL COAT REQUIRES A LOT OF CARE TO STAY HEALTHY

FULL COAT WINTER, IMPORTANT TO KEEP EARS CLEAN, AND DRY

DOODLE FREEDOM

ONCE DOODLE DOG IS WELL TRAINED, RUNNING FREE IS A PLEASURE

GOLDEN DOODLE SPRING TRIM DOWN

 THE DOODLES Have very specific needs as regards coat, eyes, ears, throat , and training

GOLDEN DOODLE POODLE HAIRDO POODLE LOOK IS BEST TO KEEP EARS HEALTHY

GOLDEN DOODLE AND COCKAPOO COHABIT WELL

COCKAPOO SMOOCHIOS LAYLA!
ENGLISH COCKER SPANIEL X MINIATURE POODLE

COCKER SPANIEL ACTING POODLE

!

CHOCOLATE DOODLE

CHOCOLATE DOODLE
CHOCOLATE LABRADOR RETRIEVER x STANDARD POODLE

CCOCKAPOO  SHAKESPEARE AND VANILLA DOODLE KOKO

By and large the toughest thing with the DOODLE DOGS is controlled walking. They can be huge pull n tuggers.